| The "Big 3" is a very easy mod to your car's | | | | there is, go ahead and break it off; it's what I had |
| electrical system that will help it maintain higher | | | | to do. If you don't remove the plastic tab, you |
| voltages for more power hungry amplifiers. If | | | | won't be able to remove the nut off of the |
| you've ever measured your voltage drop when | | | | terminal post. |
| playing music with the volume to the max with | | | | Adding a fuse to go in between the battery |
| your engine running, you'll see that instead of | | | | positive (+) and the alternator is highly |
| reading 14.4v or 13.8 (depending on car), your | | | | recommended, but not necessary. There is a |
| voltmeter will read 13v, 12v, or even lower! You | | | | small chance that the wire will come lose and |
| can easily tell if you're experiencing these voltage | | | | short out, but it's a chance some people do not |
| drops by watching your headlights. If they dim | | | | want to take. On the contrary, I have had no |
| while playing your system, you most definitely | | | | problems in the 2 years I've had the big 3 installed |
| have voltage drop going on. This voltage drop | | | | while running an unfused wire. |
| could potentially cause harm to your amp if it is | | | | The next step is to run a wire from your engine |
| significant enough. I had a Treo SSX 1500.1 blow | | | | block to your car's chassis. This step may be |
| because I was letting my voltage drop to about | | | | difficult because you may have a hard time finding |
| 9-10v, which the amp didn't like very much. | | | | a place on the engine block to attach your wire. |
| What causes this problem are the stock, small | | | | Look for a non-essential bolt; do not use a bolt |
| gauge wires used to connect various electrical | | | | that holds fluids back. |
| components. The stock wire is usually 8 gauge, | | | | From there, you then need to attach the other |
| which is sufficient enough for roughly 50 amps. | | | | end of the wire to your chassis ground location. |
| Large amplifiers can pull up and over | | | | This ground can be anywhere on your car's |
| 200-300amps, so now you see the problem. | | | | chassis/frame, but make sure that you have |
| When doing this mod, 3 runs of wire will need to | | | | metal-to-metal contact with the terminal and your |
| be installed. They are: | | | | ground location. A good start is to follow your |
| | | | stock ground wire back to its grounding location. If |
| 1. Battery positive (+) to alternator - From the | | | | there is paint on the ground location you have |
| positive terminal on your battery to the alternator | | | | chosen, you must sand it off until it is bare metal |
| positive (+) post | | | | to ensure minimal electrical resistance. |
| 2. Engine block to chassis ground - From engine | | | | Lastly, the final step is to run a wire from your |
| block to chasis. This is to strengthen the ground. | | | | battery's ground (-) terminal to the ground |
| 3. Battery ground (-) to chassis ground - From | | | | location on the chassis. Measure the wire and be |
| the negative terminal on your battery to your | | | | sure to leave a little slack in case you need it. |
| car's chassis. | | | | Then terminate the ends with ring terminals and |
| I recommend using 1/0 gauge wire. You could use | | | | attach one end to the negative terminal and the |
| 4 gauge wire if that's all you have laying around, | | | | other to your grounding location on your chassis |
| but you might as well use 1/0 the first time so | | | | (as seen above). |
| you won't have to go back if you decide to | | | | Once you have made the new, beefier battery |
| upgrade your system later on down the road. | | | | ground, you can cut off, disconnect, do whatever |
| The wire I used was Knu Konceptz 1/0 Kollosus | | | | you want to the stock ground wire because it is |
| Kable You will also need 1/0 ring terminals to | | | | not needed anymore. When you think you're |
| terminate the ends of the wire. | | | | finished, go ahead and double check all of your |
| Before you do anything, make sure to be safe. | | | | connections making sure that they are snug and |
| Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of | | | | tight. |
| your battery before you begin. This makes an | | | | That's it! The "Big 3" is now finished. You should |
| incomplete circuit and keeps you safe from | | | | notice a difference in voltage when playing your |
| sustaining electrical injuries. | | | | system at max volume. Before I did this upgrade, |
| First, measure a length of wire to go from your | | | | my voltage was at about 10v under heavy load. |
| battery positive (+) terminal to your alternator. | | | | After doing the "Big 3" upgrade, my voltage under |
| Make sure to leave a little bit of slack, around 6 | | | | heavy load was stabilized at about 11v. Quite a |
| inches, so you'll be able to position the cable | | | | large difference for how much you spent on the |
| freely. Terminate the ends of the cable with ring | | | | wire and terminals. That's why the "Big 3" is |
| terminals, then connect the wire from battery | | | | considered the first electrical upgrade you should |
| positive (+) terminal to your alternator. There | | | | do to ensure consistent power to your amplifiers. |
| may be a plastic tab on the alternator post. If | | | | |